
1856
Thomas Burberry
London, UK
Daniel Lee
Burberry is a renowned British luxury fashion house founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry. Known for its iconic trench coats, tartan scarves, and accessories, the brand also offers handbags, perfumes, eyewear, and cosmetics. Throughout the 20th century, Burberry became synonymous with British culture and was granted Royal Warrants by Queen Elizabeth II and the Prince of Wales.
· Brand History ·
Founder Thomas Burberry (1835-1926) was born in Surrey, England. After apprenticing at a draper’s shop, he established his own business in Basingstoke, Hampshire at age 21, focusing on outdoor clothing. In 1879, Burberry invented Gabardine fabric, marking a pivotal moment in the brand’s early development.
Gabardine revolutionized weatherproof clothing. This innovative fabric used waterproofed yarn to create a durable, breathable material. In 1888, Burberry patented Gabardine and applied it to coats, tents, and other products.
In 1901, Burberry introduced its Equestrian Knight logo, featuring a shield with the initial “B” and a banner with the Latin word “PRORSUM” meaning “Forward.” This was officially trademarked in 1909.
During the early 20th century, Burberry became the preferred outfitter for famous explorers including Roald Amundsen, the first to reach the South Pole (1911), and Ernest Shackleton during his Antarctic expeditions (1914).
The Burberry trench coat remains its most iconic product. Originally designed in 1895 as the “Tielocken” military coat, it was patented in 1912. During World War I, Burberry enhanced the design with functional details like sleeve straps, epaulets, D-ring belts, and gun flaps, creating the modern trench coat.
In the 1920s, Burberry introduced the “Nova” check pattern as a lining for its trench coats. This distinctive beige background with red, black, and white intersecting stripes became a signature element, later applied to other products like scarves and handbags.
During WWII, Burberry again supplied the British military while expanding its civilian offerings to include everyday wear and specialized sportswear for golf, fishing, equestrian, cycling, tennis, archery, and skiing.
By mid-century, Burberry trench coats became Hollywood staples, worn by stars like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (1942), Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), and Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther series.
During the 1970s-80s, Burberry expanded to the US market, opening stores in New York, San Francisco, Chicago, Boston, and Washington D.C. Licensing agreements helped diversify its product range to include suits, shirts, children’s wear, and accessories.
Counterfeiting issues led to a brand crisis in the early 2000s. CEO Angela Ahrendts revitalized Burberry by reducing overt use of the check pattern and tightening brand controls.
Burberry pioneered digital luxury retail, launching e-commerce sites (2004-2007) and the innovative “Art of the Trench” social platform (2009). Its comprehensive Burberry.com launched in 2011.
In 2018, Riccardo Tisci became Chief Creative Officer, introducing a new logo and monogram designed by Peter Saville, featuring interlocking “T” and “B” initials.
· Timeline ·
- 1856Thomas Burberry establishes Burberry.
- 1879Invention of Gabardine fabric.
- 1888Gabardine patent registered.
- 1891First London store opens.
- 1901Equestrian Knight logo introduced.
- 1909Paris store opens.
- 1912Tielocken coat patented.
- 1914Supplies British military during WWI.
- 1919Receives Royal Warrant from King George V.
- 1924Introduces check pattern as coat lining.
- 1939Supplies British armed forces during WWII.
- 1955Receives Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth II; GUS acquires stake.
- 1964Official outfitter for British Olympic women’s team.
- 1990Receives Royal Warrant from Prince of Wales.
- 1999Officially renamed Burberry.
- 2000Bond Street flagship opens.
- 2001Christopher Bailey becomes Creative Director.
- 2002Lists on London Stock Exchange.
- 2004Launches US e-commerce site.
- 2005GUS divests from Burberry.
- 2006Launches UK e-commerce; Angela Ahrendts becomes CEO.
- 2009Opens Horseferry House headquarters.
- 2011Launches Burberry.com.
- 2012Opens world’s largest flagship on Regent Street.
- 2015Consolidates Prorsum, London, and Brit lines.
- 2017Julie Brown becomes COO/CFO; Marco Gobbetti becomes CEO.
- 2018Riccardo Tisci appointed Chief Creative Officer.
- 2022Daniel Lee becomes Chief Creative Officer.