CHANEL

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Brand History

Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) was born in Saumur, France. After her mother’s death and abandonment by her father, she lived in an orphanage where she learned sewing. At age 18, she left the orphanage to work as a seamstress and singer at cafes. The nickname “Coco” reportedly came from two songs she sang, “Ko Ko Ri Ko” and “Qui qu’a vu Coco.”

Coco met polo player Arthur Boy Capel when she was 26 years old and became his lover. With his support, she founded “CHANEL Modes” in 1910, opening millinery shops, sportswear boutiques, and fashion houses. She revolutionized women’s fashion by incorporating menswear elements into her designs.

In 1918, CHANEL moved to 31 Rue Cambon, one of Paris’s most prestigious streets, which expanded over time to become its global flagship store. The success of “CHANEL No.5” perfume led Coco to collaborate with businessman Pierre Wertheimer to establish Parfums CHANEL.

The 1920s saw women carrying handbags inconveniently. To solve this issue, Coco introduced military backpack straps into handbag design, launching her first shoulder bag in 1929. This bag featured sturdy metal chains and a flap closure to protect contents.

The Great Depression and World War II forced many fashion brands to close. Coco officially closed her stores in 1939 but reopened them in 1954 at age 71 after regaining Pierre Wertheimer’s financial backing.

Upon reopening, Coco redesigned her shoulder bag, introducing the iconic “2.55 Flap Bag” in 1955. Inspired by her childhood memories and equestrian interests, it featured dual-chain leather straps, red leather lining, and quilted diamond-pattern stitching.

The bag’s interior had a zipped compartment for letters, while the front flap lock symbolized Coco’s lifelong single status. A pocket on the back held coins.

British actress Elizabeth Taylor famously carried the “2.55 Flap Bag,” seen here with her husband.

Coco passed away on January 10, 1971, in the Hotel Ritz Paris at age 87. Alain Wertheimer, grandson of Pierre Wertheimer, took control of the company. In the 1970s, CHANEL expanded its ready-to-wear collection and accessories globally.

Karl Lagerfeld has been CHANEL’s artistic director since 1983. He reimagined Coco’s shoulder bag design in the mid-1980s with the “Classic Flap” series, featuring leather chain straps and double-C logo closures. These have become CHANEL’s signature features.

To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the “2.55 Flap Bag” in 2005, Karl Lagerfeld released the Reissue 2.55 series, maintaining the original’s appearance except for substituting goat leather with calf leather.

Other classic CHANEL bags include the Le Boy series, inspired by Coco’s young days with Arthur Boy Capel, and the Gabrielle series, named after Coco’s maiden name to honor her early life.

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Timeline

• 1883Gabrielle Chanel is born in Saumur, France.
• 1910Gabrielle Chanel opens a millinery shop in Paris and founds CHANEL Modes.
• 1913Opens a sports clothing boutique in Deauville.
• 1915Opens the first fashion house in Biarritz.
• 1918Moves to 31 Rue Cambon, Paris, now CHANEL’s headquarters.
• 1921Launches “CHANEL No.5” perfume.
• 1924Establishes Parfums CHANEL.
• 1926Launches the Little Black Dress.
• 1929Launches the first lady’s shoulder bag.
• 1939Closes all shops due to WWII.
• 1954Returns to Paris; shops reopen.
• 1955Lanches the “2.55 Flap Bag”.
• 1971Gabrielle Chanel dies.
• 1978Launches the first prêt-à-porter collection.
• 1983Karl Lagerfeld becomes Artistic Director.
• 1985Lanches the Classic Flap series.
• 2005Lanches the Reissue 2.55 series, a remake of the “2.55 Flap Bag”.
• 2011Lanches the Le Boy series.
• 2017Lanches the Gabrielle series.
• 2019Karl Lagerfeld passes away; Virginie Viard succeeds him as Artistic Director.

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Signature Collections